September arrives, and our tables begin to change. Chiles en nogada make their return, gatherings form around a pot of pozole, and tostadas, pambazos, and other antojitos start appearing, immediately bringing Mexico’s Independence celebrations to mind. Some have a historical or seasonal connection to this time of year; others have earned their place simply because they are perfect for sharing.
Mexican food in September tells stories of history, seasonal ingredients, and traditions passed down from one generation to the next. But why have these dishes become such an important part of the month’s celebrations? There is more than one story behind each of them.
Chiles en Nogada: September Has a Season, Too
Few dishes announce the arrival of September quite like chiles en nogada. And it isn’t only because of their green, white, and red colors. Their presence during these months also follows the agricultural calendar: key ingredients such as Castilla walnuts and pomegranates are harvested around this time, which is why chiles en nogada are traditionally considered a seasonal dish.
There are different versions of the story behind their origin. The best known says that the Augustinian nuns of the Santa Mónica convent in Puebla prepared the dish in 1821 to welcome Agustín de Iturbide and represent the colors of the Army of the Three Guarantees. However, research and accounts surrounding its creation are more varied, so it is more accurate to think of this story as a tradition rather than an undisputed origin.
What we do know is that the combination of poblano pepper, fruit, spices, nogada, and pomegranate eventually became one of the most recognizable expressions of Mexican cuisine at this time of year.
Pozole: A History That Predates Independence
Today, it’s hard to imagine the night of September 15 without pozole, but its story began centuries before Mexico’s Independence celebrations.
Its name comes from the Nahuatl word pozolli, related to the foamy appearance of cacahuazintle corn as it cooks and the kernels open. Its origins date back to pre-Hispanic times, and although its ingredients, preparation, and meaning changed after the Spanish Conquest, corn remains at the heart of the dish.
And there isn’t just one kind of pozole. Red pozole, particularly associated with Jalisco, includes ancho and guajillo chiles; green pozole from Guerrero may include tomatillos and pumpkin seeds, while white pozole leaves the broth without either of these preparations. Along the coasts, there are even versions made with fish and seafood.
Perhaps its ability to change from one region to another helps explain its place in our celebrations: the same idea can have as many flavors as there are Mexican tables.
Tostadas: Food Made for Sharing
At a gathering, few things work quite as well as putting all the ingredients on the table and letting everyone make their own tostada. Chicken, tinga, pata, beans, crema, cheese, lettuce, and different salsas can turn a crispy tortilla into completely different combinations.
Mexican tostadas are also a reminder of just how versatile corn can be. The same tortilla served alongside pozole can become the base of the next dish, and the fact that tostadas are so easy to serve and share helps explain why they appear so often at celebrations, fairs, and family gatherings.
And there is something very familiar about everyone gathering around the table, deciding what to put on the next one.
Pambazos: The Antojito Dressed in Red
Bread, guajillo chile sauce, potatoes with chorizo, lettuce, crema, and cheese: the pambazo has everything it needs to earn a place among the antojitos at a Mexican celebration.
Although there are different regional preparations—including the Veracruz-style pambazo, which is very different from the version commonly found in central Mexico—the one dipped in red sauce and finished on a comal has become a familiar sight at fairs, markets, and celebrations.
It also brings something different to a table often dominated by corn. Crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, and prepared to order, it’s one of those dishes that hardly needs a special occasion but somehow tastes even better when there’s something to celebrate.
Buñuelos: The Sweet Side of the Celebration
Buñuelos aren’t exclusive to September. In fact, in Mexico they are particularly associated with posadas and December celebrations, but they are also part of fairs and popular festivities throughout the year.
Their history is also a reminder that Mexican cuisine was shaped by many cultural encounters. Fried dough preparations served with honey had existed for centuries in regions of North Africa and the Middle East before reaching Spain and later crossing the Atlantic to Mexico, where they developed their own forms and accompaniments.
Crispy, sprinkled with sugar, or served with piloncillo syrup, they are a delicious way to end any celebration.
September Tastes Better When Shared
Maybe that’s why September tastes different. It isn’t only that certain dishes appear more often, but that so many of them are meant to be enjoyed together: a pot of pozole at the center of the table, a spread of tostadas, or the inevitable conversation about where to find the best chiles en nogada.
Our food tells part of our history, but it also preserves something much more everyday: the joy of gathering around a meal.
